After this most recent climbing adventure to Rodellar, Spain, I have fallen even more in love with climbing. I know everyone has different experiences, climbs at different levels, and has their own expectations. I know I do. My goal for the trip was to climb a 7c and although I did not accomplish that goal, I think I got something better. I learned that climbing is like being in a relationship; there are highs and lows but it’s worth fighting for. One climb in particular really tested me in my relationship with climbing. This climb is called Aquest Any Si. According to my friend Santi it was the first bolted climb in Rodellar. I had to do it and I fell in love once I tried it.
The route has tufas, underclings,
sidepulls, and pinches. It is pretty much my anti-style, but the moves are
amazing. I was so used to crimping and downpulling that this climb really
tested my abilities. The first time I tried it I went bolt to bolt, but I could
do every move without too much trouble. However, I knew the top was going to be
the most challenging since there is no true rest on this climb and is very
sustained.
So my first few redpoint attempts were
pretty brutal. I would get to the fifth draw and it would kick me off. That
happened several times, but I was determined to get past that section. I got
some better beta and figured out a better rest for me since I stink at kneebars
and it was really difficult to rest at the huge undercling. So I found what
would be my rest and I stuck with it. Then came the last two draws which I
think were also the hardest moves of the climb. I was now getting to the second
to last bolt with no problem but that last draw was pretty difficult to clip.
It was close to the anchors and the fall was clean but I was still hesitant to
skip it. After many more attempts I was now falling right at the last draw. On
one of the tries I was feeling pretty solid and I went to clip that draw but
fumbled it terribly. So, I decided that I was going to skip it. I have never
skipped draws before but I saw someone else do it and it gave me a boost of
confidence.
By this point I had every move dialed on
this climb. After changing beta many times at the top, I was confident in what
I had to do. I kept telling myself I had to skip the last draw. And I did, and
I took that whip many times. I was still getting shut down by this amazing
climb. However, even though I was not sending it, my technique was improving. I
was turning, using drop knees and holding things that I never thought I could
before. I knew in my head that it was making me a better climber but I was
getting a little frustrated by this point because I really wanted to send it.
It was getting to crunch time with only four climbing days left. I knew I was
running out of time and the temps were getting worse and worse. It was
impossible to project in the middle of the day because the heat would just suck
all the energy out of me. I was getting desperate. So I did what any other
dedicated and determined climber would do. I got up at 4:30 in the morning so I
could get to the climb before it got in the sun which was about 8am. This gave
me enough time for the hike, to do my warm up, and to give it a few redpoint
attempts before the sun came over the mountains.
On the first of these early mornings I
felt great. I was coming off a rest day and I felt like I could it. I had gone
over all the moves in my head, knew I was skipping that last draw and I knew I
could do it. I felt great at the rest, hardly pumped. As my friend Carolina
reminded me that sometimes you need the rest more for your head than your arms
as it gives you a chance to slow your heart rate and tell yourself that you can
do it. I believe my rest was one of those mental rests because my arms felt
great. The funny part is that my legs would actually start to cramp up and that
was when I knew I just had to go and try to finish it. As I started to flow
through the last few moves, my mind was calm, I was breathing well and my arms
felt pretty good. I moved past the last draw without clipping it and I felt
like this was it. As I went to grab the last bad hold which was a small gaston
with my left hand, I thought I had it. The next thing I know I am falling. As I
am falling I can hear myself screaming but it was almost like I was not in my
own body, but like I was watching somebody else fall. I suddenly slammed into
the wall with my back and butt and I found myself hanging upside down. It was
the first time I had ever fallen upside down and I hope it was the last. It
almost felt like I was in a dream, I was in pure shock of what happened. As I
flipped myself back the realization of what happened started to come over me. I
think Brian was more terrified than I was. He was the one belaying me and I am
sure it looked much worse that it actually felt. We tried to assess what
happened and we concluded that I was probably kicking as I was falling and
caught the rope with my foot which led to the incident. I did not let that
deter me from getting back on the climb. Instead twenty minutes later I tried
again, this time clipping the last draw.
I did not send that day. Instead I went
back pretty disappointed. I try not to let climbing determine my moods or
control my life yet climbing is such an emotional investment that it is
difficult to let it go. By this point I had spent probably 4 or more days
trying to redpoint with three attempts per day. I told myself that I am going
to give it one more day before I move on and try something new.
The 4:30 am wake up the next morning was
brutal. My body was aching from the fall the previous day. I knew it was going
to be a battle. I got pretty pumped on my warm ups even though I tried to not
let it get to my head. I still had hope. While Brian put up the draws on the
climb, two climbers walked up and I knew that they were going to get on it as
well. My heart sank a little because I knew I would not have as much time that
day. I was getting so desperate that on my first attempt I went back to my
original beta of throwing for the last jug. I fell again. I knew I had to let
another climber go ahead of me and I waited as the sun was making its way up
the horizon. Of course the climber was taking his time, chatting, moving
terribly slow and I was growing impatient. I told myself to let it go and relax
so I cheered as the climber began his attempt. Unfortunately he did not send
and it was my turn again. This was it. I was going to finish it. I felt more
fatigued as I got on the climb but I knew I just had to relax. I felt calm and
I let my body take over and all I had to do was keep my heart from racing. Next
thing I know I hit that last jug and into the last undercling to clip the
chain. It was the biggest weight off my shoulders. I have never been so happy
to send. I was filled with relief and excitement at the same time. It was a
crazy journey. As much as I wanted to curse that climb for making me suffer
instead I thanked it for teaching me some valuable lessons.
I learned that nothing is impossible. With
enough determination and confidence, anything is possible. This is not only
true in climbing but in life as well. There were times when I wanted to walk
away and give up but instead I kept trying harder. I learned that if you really
want something you have to work at it. I think that climbing teaches us some
valuable lessons. It teaches us to stay calm in a stressful situation. It
teaches us to not give up even when things are tough. It also makes us
appreciate life and the people close to us. I could not have accomplished my
goal without Brian by my side. He gives me so much motivation and support and I
could not ask for a better climbing partner. I also could not have done it
without Carolina and all the other people who encouraged me to keep trying and
to keep fighting. In the end its you and the climb but there are still people
along the way who help you in accomplishing your goals. I could not be more
thankful for all the people in my life. I think that climbing makes me
appreciate life and to live everyday in the best way I can. Climbing is a way
of life. I can’t wait to see what else it has in store for me. For now, it's
time to train and dream about my next project.
