Overcoming Obstacles

After this most recent climbing adventure to Rodellar, Spain, I have fallen even more in love with climbing. I know everyone has different experiences, climbs at different levels, and has their own expectations. I know I do. My goal for the trip was to climb a 7c and although I did not accomplish that goal, I think I got something better. I learned that climbing is like being in a relationship; there are highs and lows but it’s worth fighting for. One climb in particular really tested me in my relationship with climbing. This climb is called Aquest Any Si. According to my friend Santi it was the first bolted climb in Rodellar. I had to do it and I fell in love once I tried it.

The route has tufas, underclings, sidepulls, and pinches. It is pretty much my anti-style, but the moves are amazing. I was so used to crimping and downpulling that this climb really tested my abilities. The first time I tried it I went bolt to bolt, but I could do every move without too much trouble. However, I knew the top was going to be the most challenging since there is no true rest on this climb and is very sustained.  

So my first few redpoint attempts were pretty brutal. I would get to the fifth draw and it would kick me off. That happened several times, but I was determined to get past that section. I got some better beta and figured out a better rest for me since I stink at kneebars and it was really difficult to rest at the huge undercling. So I found what would be my rest and I stuck with it. Then came the last two draws which I think were also the hardest moves of the climb. I was now getting to the second to last bolt with no problem but that last draw was pretty difficult to clip. It was close to the anchors and the fall was clean but I was still hesitant to skip it. After many more attempts I was now falling right at the last draw. On one of the tries I was feeling pretty solid and I went to clip that draw but fumbled it terribly. So, I decided that I was going to skip it. I have never skipped draws before but I saw someone else do it and it gave me a boost of confidence.  

By this point I had every move dialed on this climb. After changing beta many times at the top, I was confident in what I had to do. I kept telling myself I had to skip the last draw. And I did, and I took that whip many times. I was still getting shut down by this amazing climb. However, even though I was not sending it, my technique was improving. I was turning, using drop knees and holding things that I never thought I could before. I knew in my head that it was making me a better climber but I was getting a little frustrated by this point because I really wanted to send it. It was getting to crunch time with only four climbing days left. I knew I was running out of time and the temps were getting worse and worse. It was impossible to project in the middle of the day because the heat would just suck all the energy out of me. I was getting desperate. So I did what any other dedicated and determined climber would do. I got up at 4:30 in the morning so I could get to the climb before it got in the sun which was about 8am. This gave me enough time for the hike, to do my warm up, and to give it a few redpoint attempts before the sun came over the mountains.

On the first of these early mornings I felt great. I was coming off a rest day and I felt like I could it. I had gone over all the moves in my head, knew I was skipping that last draw and I knew I could do it. I felt great at the rest, hardly pumped. As my friend Carolina reminded me that sometimes you need the rest more for your head than your arms as it gives you a chance to slow your heart rate and tell yourself that you can do it. I believe my rest was one of those mental rests because my arms felt great. The funny part is that my legs would actually start to cramp up and that was when I knew I just had to go and try to finish it. As I started to flow through the last few moves, my mind was calm, I was breathing well and my arms felt pretty good. I moved past the last draw without clipping it and I felt like this was it. As I went to grab the last bad hold which was a small gaston with my left hand, I thought I had it. The next thing I know I am falling. As I am falling I can hear myself screaming but it was almost like I was not in my own body, but like I was watching somebody else fall. I suddenly slammed into the wall with my back and butt and I found myself hanging upside down. It was the first time I had ever fallen upside down and I hope it was the last. It almost felt like I was in a dream, I was in pure shock of what happened. As I flipped myself back the realization of what happened started to come over me. I think Brian was more terrified than I was. He was the one belaying me and I am sure it looked much worse that it actually felt. We tried to assess what happened and we concluded that I was probably kicking as I was falling and caught the rope with my foot which led to the incident. I did not let that deter me from getting back on the climb. Instead twenty minutes later I tried again, this time clipping the last draw.

I did not send that day. Instead I went back pretty disappointed.  I try not to let climbing determine my moods or control my life yet climbing is such an emotional investment that it is difficult to let it go. By this point I had spent probably 4 or more days trying to redpoint with three attempts per day. I told myself that I am going to give it one more day before I move on and try something new.

The 4:30 am wake up the next morning was brutal. My body was aching from the fall the previous day. I knew it was going to be a battle. I got pretty pumped on my warm ups even though I tried to not let it get to my head. I still had hope. While Brian put up the draws on the climb, two climbers walked up and I knew that they were going to get on it as well. My heart sank a little because I knew I would not have as much time that day. I was getting so desperate that on my first attempt I went back to my original beta of throwing for the last jug. I fell again. I knew I had to let another climber go ahead of me and I waited as the sun was making its way up the horizon. Of course the climber was taking his time, chatting, moving terribly slow and I was growing impatient. I told myself to let it go and relax so I cheered as the climber began his attempt. Unfortunately he did not send and it was my turn again. This was it. I was going to finish it. I felt more fatigued as I got on the climb but I knew I just had to relax. I felt calm and I let my body take over and all I had to do was keep my heart from racing. Next thing I know I hit that last jug and into the last undercling to clip the chain. It was the biggest weight off my shoulders. I have never been so happy to send. I was filled with relief and excitement at the same time. It was a crazy journey. As much as I wanted to curse that climb for making me suffer instead I thanked it for teaching me some valuable lessons.

I learned that nothing is impossible. With enough determination and confidence, anything is possible. This is not only true in climbing but in life as well. There were times when I wanted to walk away and give up but instead I kept trying harder. I learned that if you really want something you have to work at it. I think that climbing teaches us some valuable lessons. It teaches us to stay calm in a stressful situation. It teaches us to not give up even when things are tough. It also makes us appreciate life and the people close to us. I could not have accomplished my goal without Brian by my side. He gives me so much motivation and support and I could not ask for a better climbing partner. I also could not have done it without Carolina and all the other people who encouraged me to keep trying and to keep fighting. In the end its you and the climb but there are still people along the way who help you in accomplishing your goals. I could not be more thankful for all the people in my life. I think that climbing makes me appreciate life and to live everyday in the best way I can. Climbing is a way of life. I can’t wait to see what else it has in store for me. For now, it's time to train and dream about my next project.